how to extreme

Fix a Leaky Shower Faucet

Bath, Construction How-To, Remodeling December 17, 2012 Sonia


By Matt Weber

 

Don’t blame the showerhead for a leaky spout. The problem originates in the valves behind the shower handles.

 

 

 

When a tub or shower faucet leaks, don’t scowl at the spout. That’s like blaming the messenger for bad news. The trouble lies behind the handles, which turn valves that govern the flow of water to the spout. It’s important to fix these valves as soon as possible because, aside from the irritating drip-drip-drip, a leaky shower faucet can waste a small pond of water every day. The repair is fairly simple, but you’ll need a special set of deep-socket wrenches to get the job done. Don’t fret over the price, though. The wrenches are available at most hardware stores, and Harbor Freight sells a set for only $9.99—compare that to the cost of plumber.

Step-by-step Repair

First and foremost, shut off the water supply to the faucet before disassembling the handles.

Cut off the water supply to the shower.

Modern compression faucets generally have rubber seat washers that seal water from the spout, and the washers can deteriorate over time resulting in a leak. To get to the washers, you must remove the handles which are usually fastened with a threaded retaining nut hidden behind a decorative cap.

Remove the handle’s retaining nut and pull the handle off the valve stem.

Pry the decorative cap off the handles.

Begin by prying off the cap with a screwdriver. (In some cases these caps are threaded.) Then unscrew the nut to pull off the handle.

Next, remove the escutcheon. Escutcheons are often held with a retaining nut, but if not then the escutcheon is threaded over the valve stems. If this is the case, unscrew the entire escutcheon as one piece. If it won’t release, check to see if it’s caulked to the wall, and cut the caulk. A strap wrench may help encourage a stubborn one to turn.

Remove the escutcheon. The one shown had internal threads and simply unscrewed for removal.

Bath and shower faucets have the valves mounted deeply behind the wall. A box-end wrench won’t usually reach the bonnet nuts that hold them in place, and a standard socket won’t work because the center stem interferes with its reach—thus the need for a special deep socket.

A deep-socket shower valve wrench will fit over the protruding valve stem and reach the bonnet nut for removal.

The bonnet nut that holds the stem in place is recessed behind the wall requiring a special wrench.

Thread the socket over the stem and secure it tightly over the bonnet nut. Unscrew and remove. Pull the stem from the wall to expose the seat washer and screw. Remove the worn seat washer and replace with a new one, coating it with heat-proof faucet grease. Make sure to use the correct size and shape of seat washer and press it firmly into the stem’s retainer. If the stem is in good shape, you’re ready to reassemble the shower handles and test your faucet.

Shown here is the valve stem completely removed.

In some cases, the metal stems may be worn out and require replacement. The valve stems in our project were corroded and pitted around the washer’s retainer, contributing to the leak problem. We replaced both stems entirely, which ran roughly $12.50 each at the hardware store. They slip right into the pipes just like the old ones that we pulled out. (Be sure to use the faucet grease.)

In some cases only the washers will require replacement. the washers are held onto the end of the stem with a small screw.

In this case, not only was the rubber washer deteriorated, but the metal retainer surrounding it was corroded and pitted. We decided to replace the stems completely.

Note: When purchasing the stems, take notice of the stem’s model numbers which are typically labeled with either H or C, indicating hot or cold. These indications determine the direction of handle rotation. You will need one of each and be sure to keep them straight during installation.

If you have a leak at the threaded junction of the plumbing spout and shower head, wrap the threads with one layer of thread-seal tape. Be sure to wrap in a clockwise direction so the showerhead doesn’t peel off the tape when you screw it back on.

Coat the washer with heat-proof faucet grease and reinstall the stem.