how to extreme

The Low-Down on Crown

Construction How-To, Decorating, Finish Carpentry, Mantels. Trim, Molding December 9, 2013 Sonia


Determine your backing situation. If you are using small (2-1/4 to 3 in.) crown, then the double top plate is probably reachable with finish nails. However, larger sizes of crown molding bridge between the wall and ceiling leaving a gap that is too large to be spanned by a finish nail.

Make the backer blocks by ripping 45-degree triangular shaped strips out of 2x4.

Make the backer blocks by ripping 45-degree triangular shaped strips out of 2×4.

For larger crown, install backer blocks. Set the table saw at 45 degrees and rip triangular shaped strips out of 2×4. Chop the strips to 6-in. lengths and install at 2 ft. intervals around the room, staying about a foot away from the corners. Mark the wall with painter’s tape a few inches below the blocks to indicate their position when you cover them with crown.

Mark the wall studs with painter’s tape and nail the backer blocks over the studs.

Mark the wall studs with painter’s tape and nail the backer blocks over the studs.

Measure from wall to wall for the first piece of crown.

Install the blocks at 2’ intervals and mark their locations with masking tape.

Install the blocks at 2’ intervals and mark their locations with masking tape.

Cut the first piece of molding square on both ends. Position the first piece with the detail down and the bottom edge at the top of the masking tape marks. Nail at the tape marks, which indicate the backing locations.

Measure the wall from corner to corner to determine crown length.

Measure the wall from corner to corner to determine crown length.

Masking tape on the miter saw table and fence marks the location of the crown molding edges so it is positioned at the correct angle to the saw blade. Since the crown goes in the saw upside-down, put the ceiling mark on the table and the wall mark on the fence.

Cut the first strip square on both ends and nail into the backer blocks.

Cut the first strip square on both ends and nail into the backer blocks.

Begin a cope cut by setting the saw at 45-degrees back toward the length of the board. Position the crown molding in the saw upside-down with the edges at the tape marks made earlier. Make your miter cut.

Use masking tape to mark the edges of the crown on the miter saw’s table and fence so it is positioned at the correct angle to the saw blade.

Use masking tape to mark the edges of the crown on the miter saw’s table and fence so it is positioned at the correct angle to the saw blade.

With the crown molding face down, hook the tape at the longest point of the 45-degree cut and mark the same edge of the molding at the wall-to-wall measurement.

Since the crown goes on the saw upside-down, put the ceiling mark on the table and the wall mark on the fence. Begin a cope cut by making a 45-degree miter back toward the length of the board.

Since the crown goes on the saw upside-down, put the ceiling mark on the table and the wall mark on the fence. Begin a cope cut by making a 45-degree miter back toward the length of the board.

Turn the molding face up and use a coping saw to cut along the line determined by the intersection of the face and the cut area.

Hook the tape at the longest point of the 45-degree cut and mark the same edge of the molding at the wall-to-wall measurement.

Hook the tape at the longest point of the 45-degree cut and mark the same edge of the molding at the wall-to-wall measurement.