Renewing a Deck with Superdeck Deck & Dock Elastomeric Coating
By Monte Burch
When our deck weathered to splits and splinters we had a major problem. With more than 1,800 square feet of decking surrounding an above-ground pool, a number of the boards had also rotted. We didn’t want to rebuild the entire deck, nor install new composite decking because most of the deck boards were still solid but weathered. Although an awning protected the ends of the boards close to the house, their outer ends were badly weathered. Rather than replacing the entire 16-ft. boards, we only wanted to replace the weathered sections. However, recoating the new sections with a deck stain/preservative wouldn’t match the old boards, even with a number of coats.
The solution was Superdeck Deck & Dock Elastomeric Coating. This high-build coating is designed to protect, resurface and waterproof old damaged wood and concrete. The unique formula provides long-lasting protection against moisture and the damaging effects of the sun.
It is designed to expand and contract along with the substrate while offering excellent scuff-resistance for heavy-duty foot traffic areas. Deck & Dock Coating will also lock down splinters and bridge dimensionally unstable cracks on old damaged wood surfaces. The product is formulated to resist growth of mildew and algae on the coating’s surface.
Because our deck surrounded a pool, we also utilized Deck & Dock Anti-Skid additive. It creates a great slip-resistant surface to the deck and stair treads.
Repair and Preparation
First step was to check the deck framing. All support boards were in good shape, with only the deck boards weathered. Because the pool-deck had a railing section to keep toddlers from falling into the water, it had to be removed before recoating.
The next step was to locate and mark the rotten or soft deck boards. Some you could feel when walking across. We used a sharp knife to probe doubtful boards.
A knife blade was used to probe between the deck boards to locate the joists, and mark their locations. We then used a Stanley Quick Square to mark across the boards on the front side of the joist.
We bored starter holes at the corners of the mark with a paddle bit and then used a saber saw (jigsaw) to make the cut. In the case of multiple boards, we made a pocket cut with a circular saw followed by a saber saw to finish. The old screws were then removed and the old boards pried up and out.