how to extreme

Installing New Deck Boards Over a Solid, Existing Frame

Construction How-To, Decks, Decks, Outdoor Living September 26, 2016 Sonia


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The primary technique I used for removing the boards was jamming a crow bar between deck boards and prying up. Any number of pry bars or demolition bars would work just as well.

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I was anxious to check the condition of the beams that served as the sub-frame so I scraped off the top edges with a floor scraper both to test their condition and to prepare them for the new deck boards.

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I used the chainsaw to cut several boards to length at once while they were still nailed in place. You have to be very careful doing this that you are not getting into nails or whatever is underneath the deck.

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Cutting the deck boards to the length of my truck bed allowed me to load them and still get the tailgate closed.

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I hauled the old deck boards to the local wood recycle center where they were ground into wood chips and reused.

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The pressure-treated beams under the old deck were in great shape. I scraped off debris and removed nails remaining in the top surface. Note the one old deck board I left at the end away from the house to help keep the beams in position.

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Once I saw that the framing was good to go, I ordered enough cedar 2×6 from the local lumber yard to cover the deck and make the edge trim around it. The lumber yard delivered the 16-ft. boards right to my driveway at no extra cost.

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I added a small triangle area to the deck where there had been a square notch. I started by digging down to solid ground to set a pyramid block.

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After setting the rim joist over the pyramid block, I cut an angle on the intersecting joist by keeping the chainsaw bar parallel to the new rim joist.

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Here is the framing for the added area. Note how we supported the new joist with a concrete block and extended the existing beam with a 2×6 to intersect the joist on the pyramid block.

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When we started laying out the new deck boards, we used 7d nails as spacers between the boards, which allowed for shrinking because they were quite “green” (aka wet). If the boards were dry, we would have used 16d nails as spacers.

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