Upgrade your Deck
The resulting pile of waste might be an issue for some homeowners, and depending on the size of your deck it may require you to rent a dumpster. Luckily, we had a pickup truck to haul loads of old deck boards to the street curb, and we were working in a city that offered a weekly waste-disposal service. Once a week the city’s crane-truck would patrol the streets to pick up downed tree limbs, discarded furniture or construction waste for transport to a landfill. Demolition cleanup doesn’t get much more convenient than that!
Inspect the Framing
With the flooring removed, inspect the deck’s structural framing. Make sure all connections are solid and there is no significant rot, that everything is stable, and that no joists have sagged. Address any unresolved issues before installing new deck boards.
Also, take the opportunity to address any construction issues the original builder may have overlooked. For example, this was a freestanding cantilevered deck, and the joists on one end ran “wild” over a beam and had no blocking between them. When blocking is fastened between the joist ends it prevents the joists from twisting. If the joists twist then the level decking surface will be compromised. So, with the deck boards out of the way, we decided to add blocking between joist ends before covering them again.
Shadoe Track Fastener System
To install the system, align the Shadoe Track galv/vinyl-coated sections along each joist so their center ridge rests flush against the wood and the trough is oriented downward like a “V”. The bottom of the trough features weep holes to allow drainage during rainy weather. Nail the Shadoe Track through the mounting holes and into the tops of the joists. The manufacturer recommends using the 2-in. galvanized ring-shank nails that are included in the kit. Continue installation to cover all lineal feet of the deck joists.
In some cases you may need to cut the metal tracks, and this can easily be done with a pair of tin snips.
As you would with any deck project, begin laying the boards at one corner and stagger the end joints between rows. Check the growth rings on the ends of the boards to determine the “bark side” of the board, and place that side facing upward to reduce cupping and to facilitate drainage.