Repairing A Severely Rotted Subfloor
At this point, most of the new subfloor was installed. Since the under-wall subfloor piece was notched for the pipes to slide in from the far side, the plan was to notch the new bottom wall plate so it would slide in from the near side to minimize the notch openings from lining up.
Chad used a level as a straight edge to mark the edges of new wall plate, in this case a 2×6, to replace the water damaged plate.
He used a framing square to mark the plate locations for both sides of each pipe.
He bumped his tape to each pipe and measured to the plate layout line to determine the depth of each pipe notch.
Chad used one of my jigsaws to cut out the plate notches. I didn’t even know he had my jigsaw.
After notching and fitting the new bottom plate, he nailed it to the new subfloor.
He positioned the studs, which were turned sideways in this plumbing wall, and toenailed them into the bottom plate.
On the longer diagonal subfloor splice, Chad predrilled for a plywood gusset.
He fastened the gusset under the existing subfloor so it extended out to support the edge of the new subfloor piece.
Wrapping up the subfloor in the adjacent bathroom required an interesting puzzle piece to bridge the floor joists, to match the diagonal shiplap of the existing subfloor, and to accommodate a toilet drain.
Chad completed the subfloor repair by “nailing it off” and sealing the gaps at the pipe.
Using a Cat’s Paw
A cat’s paw bar is a nail-pulling tool with chisel-like claws designed to dig into the wood surrounding a nail just below the nail head. Striking surfaces for hammer blows are located so the claws can be driven through the wood to the nail shank. A rounded heal acts as a pry bar fulcrum so nails can be pried out as you pull back on the bar shank.