Removing and Replacing Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints
By Tim Walton Photos by Larry Walton
Worn out suspension components can lead to tire wear. This condition also makes the vehicle less responsive and generally unpleasant to drive. The number and location of ball joints can vary depending on what type of suspension your vehicle has. The ball joints allow movement in your suspension so it can conform to the contours of the road.
If a ball joint goes bad, it does not allow the wheel and tire of the vehicle to move as intended, which can not only cause undesired tire wear but also be potentially dangerous if the joint itself fails completely. Most of the joints are designed to be non-serviceable. However, if the boot wears out or is torn, they will lose their grease and wear at an accelerated rate. Some joints do have grease fittings where you can reapply grease and should be inspected when the vehicle is serviced.
A ball joint failing often makes a clicking noise, grinding noise or even a clunking noise when going over a bump. One way to diagnose ball joints is to lift the vehicle until the tires clear the ground and apply pressure to the wheel. You are feeling for extra movement or “slop”. Check to make sure the movement is from the ball joint and not from something else such as the wheel bearing.
On this Subaru, we’re also addressing another issue that comes with vehicles that have aftermarket suspension, which is to reduce bump steer that can occur when you lower the vehicle. This kit from Whiteline includes extended ball joints and outer tie rod ends to move the pivot point of both suspension components to correct for the change in ride height.
When a vehicle is lowered, the angle of the tie rods and lower control arm can add more body roll in addition to the undesirable bump-steer feedback in the steering wheel. While this installation addresses these issues on a lowered car, the same installation process applies to replacing worn parts on a stock car.
Whiteline’s Roll Center Adjustment Kit comes with a pair of outer tie rods and a pair of ball joints to replace the stock units. If you’re replacing factory equipment parts with similar geometry, the parts will be sold individually rather than in a kit.
The cotter pin and castle nut needs to be removed from the bottom of the ball joint so it can be removed from the control arm.
We used a pneumatic impact wrench to make short work of removing the castle nuts that hold the lower ball joints in place.
A deep socket gave us the clearance over the rotor and dust shield, to remove the castle nut holding the outer tie rod.
Depending on the age of the car and the amount of rust on the ball joints, they may come out easily or be a real challenge.
A ball joint removal tool makes short work of removing the ball joint. The tool can also save the stock ball joints and grease-filled boot, which in this case were still in good condition.