Installing New Deck Boards Over a Solid, Existing Frame
I snapped a few lines parallel to the house across the beams so I could periodically check to see if the deck boards were still running in line with the house. Often it is easier to measure to these lines on the beams than to measure back across the new decking.
I place a reference board on the ground to make sure my cantilevers were out far enough to be trimmed back on the angled portion of the deck.
I sighted down the boards and turned them so the crown was toward the house. This made it easy to start at one end of a deck board and work the crown out from the concave side of the board while tacking it with a deck screw on every other beam.
With the deck boards cantilevered past the outside beams, I snapped a chalk line and trimmed off the ends.
I added deck boards as a trim boarder around the outside of the deck. I put at least one screw through the trim board into each deck board.
After all of the deck boards were positioned and tacked down, I went back over the entire deck and screwed down the decking with two screws at each joist.
The finished deck looks just like the original when it was new. Thanks to well preserved, pressure-treated beams underneath, this new deck was relatively inexpensive and fast to replace. In a few months the color will match the silver of the cedar fencing near the deck.