Rustic Doors for Cabinets & Drawers
I then took the door and drawer blanks to my Ridgid benchtop belt sander and carefully cleaned the edges, focusing on getting the applied strips flush with the rough sawn board.
Tip: The doors are longer than the sanding belt, so I “free-handed” the sanding procedure. This required me to carefully and evenly move the door back and forth along the sanding belt.
Drilling for Hinges and Knobs
We used a 35mm Forstner hinge cup drill bit in a drill press to make the door-hinge holes. I placed these holes in a slightly different location than on the older door hinges so as not to have to deal with the old screw holes in the cabinet case face-frames. These holes would be filled and painted by the painter and I wanted solid wood for my screws.
The client provided me with solid cherry knob pulls, and I simply centered and drilled these in the locations he desired.
For the hinges, we re-used the existing Blum Overlay Hinges designed for face-frames and replaced any as needed.
I like these hinges as they have a smooth, soft-closing action and are ideal for face-frame cabinets or any cabinet where clearance is an issue. Each hinge has three-way adjustability, are compact and are available in five different overlays, ranging from 3/8 to 1-3/8 inch.
Hanging the Doors
To save costs the client chose to paint and hang the doors. I mounted the hinges to the door so all he had to do was establish a reference point to keep all the doors the same height. I told him to make a small story pole or reference stick and use it at each door. Alternatively he could also install blue tape at the tops of every door and use a laser or level and make reference marks.