Rustic Doors for Cabinets & Drawers
When ripping the strips I used a table saw and feather-board to keep the board tight to the fence.
I also used a sacrificial push block to move the board through and past the blade.
Note: On the drawers we reduced the faux strips to 2-1/4-in. wide for aesthetics.
Applying the Frame-and-Panel Look
On traditional frame-and-panel doors the “stiles” always run from top to bottom along the sides and the “rails” fit between, and butt into the stiles.
After cutting one side of each strip square, I flushed the strip to the end of each rough sawn board and used a utility knife to mark the opposite end.
I made all the cuts on a miter saw, lightly eased the edges with a hand plane and then glued them to the rough sawn board with wood glue. A few well-placed pin nails held the strips in place until
I could apply clamps.
Once both of the “stiles” were applied I followed the same method for squaring, marking and cutting the “rail” strips.
“We’re Gonna Need More Clamps!”
This method of construction quickly eats up your supply of clamps, so make sure you have enough handy to do this before pouring the glue. Putting the glue back into the bottle is harder than getting it out!
To help with the shortage of clamps, I used strips of scrap pipe as “clamping cauls.” Cauls are used when clamping and gluing up project. Cauls provide better and more even pressure across the workpiece, beyond the reach of the clamp’s head. Cauls also allow you to reduce the number of clamps required on a glue-up.
Sand All Six Sides
I allowed a day for the strips to dry, filled any voids with wood filler and then sanded the faces with an orbital sander. When sanding, I focused on getting the style and rail strip intersections flush but used care not to eliminate the sawn marks.