Concrete Staining Step-By-Step
Posted in Construction How-To Construction How-To Flooring Installation Outdoor Living Outdoor Living Patios Construction How-To Stain Painting staining Construction How-To Stone and Concrete
By Gaye Goodman
Master Concrete Stainer, Gaye Goodman, explains the staining procedure in step-by-step detail.
This article will take you from beginning to end through a typical acid-staining job for concrete floors. We will first review the steps you must take before the crew gets to the jobsite, from how to best prepare and finish the slab, to the stain samples you will do months in advance. We will then go into some detail on the seven steps of acid staining once you’re ready to begin the project.
There are a variety of acid staining products available. See color charts and read about different types of concrete stains at ConcreteNetwork.com.
Educating Your Contractor
For acid-stained concrete, builders generally want to know how to best finish the new slab for you, when you would like to appear on the scene to do your work, and what sort of slab protection you recommend until that time. To simplify matters I devised a tear-sheet called “Warnings to Contractors,” which follows:
1. Do not use any liquid curing compound! Anything oily or waxy completely blocks penetration of the acid stain.
2. Use normal, moderate troweling. Do not allow burnishing with metal trowels.
3. If possible, avoid use of a power troweling machine. If the slab is too smooth, the pores are closed and staining becomes spotty. A “garage floor finish” gives us just the right amount of tooth in the slab for attractive acid staining.
4. We advise against using concrete with short reinforcing fibers. The slab ends up looking a bit “hairy,” usually in clumps.
5. You will need to protect the slab from tar and paint spots. For new concrete, let the slab cure for at least two weeks, then lay down plastic.
6. When covering the slab, do not use sticky tape to hold the covering down. This leaves dark, blocky marks in the concrete, which are permanent.
7. Avoid framer’s markings, such as red framer’s chalk or crayon, which seems to be completely permanent and can show through the translucent stain.
8. It’s best to stain the floor after the walls are painted but before toilets, kitchen cabinets, interior doors and baseboards are installed.
9. The acid stain can be wicked up and turn wood black, so it is good to have wood door frames painted or sealed before floor staining begins.
