how to extreme

Build a Garden Tool Shed

Construction How-To, Gardening, Holiday, Outdoor Living, Projects June 12, 2005 Sonia


The age-old “shtick” about a rake handle smacking you in the face when you step on the teeth isn’t funny. It’s happened to me more than once. One of the problems is improperly storing rakes, hoes, shovels and other long-handled tools. They can be hung up in a garage or garden shed, but usually end up right at the door, where they fall down, and again become a dangerous problem. The garden tool shed shown solves the problem of long-handled tool storage and at the same time provides a separate storage area attached to a garage or garden shed with tools at hand. This shed could also hold trash cans. Adding shelves in one side can provide a place for storing fertilizers and chemicals. The shed shown doesn’t have a back, but a back could be installed to make the shed free-standing if desired. However, it would be susceptible to toppling over very easily, so it should be “staked” or fastened in place in some manner.

Properly storing garden tools, fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides is important not only for safety, but also for ease of use. The lean-to garden tool shed shown is easy to build and takes the clutter out of your garage.

The siding of the shed is hardboard (barn siding) and requires two 4-by-8-foot sheets. First, crosscut 24 inches off the end of one 4-by-8-foot sheet. This creates the top. Rip the 6-foot piece to the correct width for the sides, and then cut their angled ends. Some of the framing is constructed of 2-by-2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 inch) materials. Rip the 2-by-2’s from 2-by-4’s. Cut the front and back support 2-by-2’s to length. Fasten a side down over these framing members. Then measure and cut the bottom and top side pieces to length, making sure the angles are correct on the top pieces. Note the bottom pieces are 2-by-4’s. Fasten these between the upright members. All siding should be fastened in place with non-corrosive fasteners. An air brad nailer works great for this step. Repeat for the opposite side.

Fitted with an accessory ripping guide, a portable circ saw can be used for ripping 2 x 4’s into 2 x 2’s for framing, and 1 x materials into trim strips.

Stand the sides upright and cut the upper and lower back 2-by-4 cross members to the correct length. Position the cross pieces between the sides and fasten the sides to them with non-corrosive “decking” screws. Then cut and fasten the front 2-by-4 cross members in place in the same manner. Stand the unit upright. Cut and install the floor joists between the front and back lower cross members and then cut and install a 3/4-inch floor over the floor joists, notching to fit around the 2-by-2 uprights. Cut the 2-by-2 door frame members and fit them in place between the front cross pieces. The tops are held in place with a block over the back of the top cross piece and door upright. The bottoms are anchored to a spacer block positioned between it and the side upright.