Adding a Medallion to a Tile Floor
The next step was to spread thin-set mortar with a notched trowel over one section of floor at a time.
With the thin-set evenly spread over the entire width of a tile, Richard placed the tile and adjusted it to the layout using grout-line spacers.
After setting three of the four cut tiles around the medallion, he spread thin-set for the medallion and carefully positioned it within the circle provided in the layout.
With the final piece of curved tile, Richard finished surrounding the medallion area so the rest of the layout was a simple grid pattern.
Often the best way to mark a piece for notching is to simply hold it in place with the proper grout spacing and mark where the cut meets the obstacle. As you plan these cuts, allow for any grout or base shoe that you’ll use to finish the perimeter.
After marking where the cut meets the wall corner, a speed square can be used for marking the cut line.
The day after setting the last tiles, the crew mixed the grout with an electric drill and a mortar/grout mixer attachment.
Since they weren’t sure how the medallion would hold up to the abrasive sand in the sanded grout, they masked off the center piece during the grouting process. The key here is to keep the tape slightly back from the edge and make sure none of the tape extends into the grout line area.
Sponging off excess grout and cleaning grout haze from the tiles require lots of rinsing and wringing of the sponge and a light touch to avoid dragging fresh grout out of the joints.
The Kenney brothers used a Dewalt DW4735 4-in. Wet/Dry XP4 Porcelain and Tile Blade to make the curved cuts around the medallion. The small diameter of the blade allows it to be turned when making shallow, successive cuts.